OK, I am done for now with long posts. Back to ‘peace, love and understanding’ for the wine community. What’s so funny about that?
Here’s what’s so funny. The internet now provides an enormous global stage for wine related pissing matches. Wine rating systems, wine and food matches, terminology, yada yada yada. At the Wine Future 2009 conference I just attended in Spain it was pointed out more than once that the blogging community spends more time rating the raters and critiquing the critics than blogging about wine. What happened to wine as the beverage of civility, bringing family and community together at the table.
The wine blogging community is starting to resemble the family dinner table of my childhood. As a matter of fact one of the metaphors we create for wine and food is this idyllic scene of people at the table, sharing and laughing. Family, friends and good times. I don’t know how it was for you but maybe your family was more like mine. If not you indubitably had a friend with a family like mine and this scene was even more excruciating is one of us had a friend over:
Mom, “We never eat together as a family anymore.”
Dad, “Alright, goddammit – kids, get in here! We are sitting down for dinner together!”
Kids (aloud), “jeez, do we hafta?” (to ourselves), “sheitz, here we go again.”
Mom, “What are you kids up to in school?”
Kids, “Not much.”
Dad, “Sit up straight! Quit mumbling. Answer your Mother.”
Mom, “This is so nice. Honey (Dad), put down your newspaper so we can talk.”
Dad, “Who wants to get me another beer? Get your elbows off the table!”
Mom, “Don’t be so harsh. Can’t we have a nice dinner for a change?”
Kids, “This sucks, I hate sauerkraut. I’m gonna puke if I try to eat this. It smells like crap”
Dad, “You will eat what is on you plate and can’t leave the table until you do!”
Mom, “For chrissake can’t we just get along. Just for once?”
Dad, “Quit whining. Don’t you kids know how to act at the dinner table? Pick up your napkin off the floor and put it on your lap. Quit trying to feed the dog your sauerkraut she is just spitting it out on the rug.” Side note - Dogs don’t eat sauerkraut. Isn’t this just further proof for a kid that humans shouldn’t either – dogs lick their butts, and the butts of any other animal that comes along, and won’t even eat sauerkraut! End side note and on with the family dinner; “And what the hell was with you report card? How on earth do you get a D in phys ed for chrissake? If you want to go to junior college and get your auto mechanics certificate you need to do better than that.”
Mom, “Can’t we just get along for once? (now crying) I can’t take this any more!”
Mom then stands up, ferociously slams down her napkin (sort of) and runs from the dining room with her face in her hands, sobbing.
Dad sighs heavily, pushes his chair back from the table, puts his hands on his knees, leans forward and pushes his way to standing. “I hope you kids are proud of yourselves,” is his parting shot. “Somebody get me another beer,” he call back.
“Thank god the annual ritual of 'family dinner' is over for this year,” is our silent thought. We pour ourselves some cereal and milk and head back to watch TV. Our 15 minutes of sheer boredom and pain is over and life back to normal (or our version of normal). The one thing we do know is we won’t have to face this again for a long time.
Wine experts disagree with other wine experts. Wine experts disagree with consumers. Consumers disagree with other consumers and with wine experts. Moms with Dads and vice versa, teenagers with everyone in the world. People disagree.
Humans create their personal point of view from the combination of sensory stimulus we experience and how that information is processed in our brain. This is how we shapes our individual sense of values, preferences, likes, dislikes, fears, passions, love, hate and so on. I can be thought of as the ‘Psycho-Sensory System’. This is how what we call reality is created.
Two BIG things to know:
1. Our sensory anatomy varies HUGELY from one person to next. This means one person gets an acute sensation and other is oblivious to it. PROP sensitivity (bitter to some, others cannot sense a thing), color blindness, touch sensitivity, hearing, smelling. We ALL experience things differently.
2. Sensations are transmitted to our brains to be processed: compared to past sensations, connected to things we have learned, judged and assessed, quantified and rationalized. Other sensations occurring around us are influencing where in our brain this is happening and what conclusions, descriptions and meaning we are conjuring up. This will create the NEW memories, meaning, assessments and values we will use in the next round of experiences.
This IS subjectivity. And EVERYTHING is subjective, even most everything which we are convinced is objective. And this is why we disagree.
Sugary sweet, simple wine to one person is delicious and wonderful for another.
Over-oaked, over-buttery, high alcohol abominations are nectar for many.
Numbers, words, medals, puffs, stars and any other way we try to describe and share our experiences are ALL metaphorical. Every one of them is valid or invalid. It depends on YOUR sensory sensitivity and neural wiring.
So let’s cut it out, please? Can’t we just have a nice wine community day of blogging and tastings and sharing without making everyone wrong and arguing (sniff, sniff).
The bottom line? CUT IT OUT! I will send you to your room with no Reidel glassware if you don’t and you won’t get any sweet wine that is ok now because it is really expensive, comes for a remote place and is hard to find and smells like honeysuckle and ripe apricots and only got that way because it got a frigging fungus all over it and shriveled up the grapes and you thought that sweet wine was for wimps until you discovered it was ok again if it met all this criteria and scored 93 points!!
AND you have to share it with your brother. Or sister. Or another blogger.
Crap, this blog is long again! More to come on our psycho-sensory systems.
Monday, November 23, 2009
Sunday, November 22, 2009
Umami Taste in Wine: The role of amino acids and 5’-ribonucleotides as primary taste components in wine.
Alrighty then - here is a life's WORK IN PROGRESS that I first proposed with sensory specialists at Cal Poly San Luis Obispo (Bob Noyes, Joe Montecalvo, and others) a long, long time ago. This is still speculation and I looking for anyone interested in pursing a formalized study!! Back when I first wrote this (over 10 years ago) many people were still throwing bread and food at me during my presentations. Tomatoes, especially cherry tomatoes, made for particularly excellent projectiles and it is interesting to note how those same fruit/vegetables contribute to satisfying our need for umami taste. When eaten, however, not used as weapons.
The long and short of this is the descriptors consistent with lees stirring Chardonnay and other white wines fit descriptors for umami taste; rich, full, creamy, etc. There is a corresponding mouthfeel component and these combine to fit umami taste descriptions to a tee. Extending the maceration of red wines would also be consistent with this hypothesis and additional contact with the yeast during this process may contribute significant levels nucleotides, the umami taste potenitometer, to the equation. And finally ahe primary taste charcteristics assoicated with aging sparkling wine en tireage and the development of rich, almost savory, Sherry flavors from contact with the flor yeast are lumped in here as well. This would account for the 'softening' of bitterness and astringency and increase in richness of flavor that is noted with longer maceration of red wines, etc.
Modern production techniques, ripeness levels, specialized yeast strains and post fermentation handling and treatments can all contibute to the increase in umami taste compounds in wine. I will be posting a video explanation of umami (in the context of truths, myths, half-truths and downright lies) shortly and set up a link for anyone interested.
Taste a plain, uncooked mushroom and then compare to a mushroom you have nuked in the microwave in a plastic baggie for 30 seconds. Apart from the 'mushroomy' aromatics you will experience the genesis of umami taste firsthand.
For anyone interested here is the info!! Tata for now and proceed with caution. Or use this as a sleep aid tonight. I wonder if anyone is working on a technology for bathrooms to replace magazines and newspaper with on demand internet and email access? Crap (figuratively speaking), another project.
Umami taste has gained much attention and formal recognition from the sensory science community as a 5th primary taste category in addition to sweet, sour, bitter and salty. Glutamic acid and 5’–ribonucleotides, which is known to synergize the intensity of umami taste of glutatmate, are found in sufficient concentration levels in wine to play an essential role in forming the taste and flavor profile and intensity of quality wines. The correlation of these compounds to desirable taste and flavor characteristics of wine has been referred to (Peynaud[1]) but never fully analyzed. The umami taste sensation, derived from glutamates and 5’-ribonucleotides, is well documented as an attractive, primary taste component of myriad food products. Additionally there are several amino acids that have been identified that add a sweet taste to foods, notably praline, arganine and alanine that are found in sufficient concentrations to be considered as taste contributors.
A preliminary review of existing studies shows sufficient levels of naturally occurring umami taste substances in both wine grapes and finished wine to warrant further study of this hypothesis. Glutamic acid, a natural compound found in wine grapes and a precursor to glutamate taste substances, and 5’ -ribonucleotides, which are associated with yeast fermentation and the enzymatic decomposition of ribonucleic acid from yeast cells. The contribution of glutamic acid (more correctly glutamate) to the taste of wine is acknowledged by Emile Peynaud in his books Knowing and Making Wine and The Taste of Wine: “Among the amino acids, however, glutamic acid should perhaps be accorded a special mention. Its appetizing flavor is well known, salty, and mellow at once. If some 200 mg/l were present in a wine, its effect on the taste would not be negligible.” Synergized by 5’ –ribonucleotides, lesser amounts of glutamic acid would contribute significantly to the taste and flavor of wine.
Alanine, proline, glycine and arginine have been found to contribute a sweet taste in various foods and are associated with the “sweet” taste of crab and other seafoods (Umami, the Fifth Basic Taste[2]) These amino acids are found in significant levels in wine grapes and wine as well. Understanding the importance of the umami taste in wine, now recognized as the fundamental taste of seafood, tomato, asparagus, mushrooms and cheese, will lead to a better understanding of standard of viticultural and winemaking processes. Implementing practices in the vineyard and winery that create higher concentrations of the appropriate precursors and optimize umami taste intensity in wine can maximize desirable taste characteristics.
Introduction
Recognition of amino acids and ribonucleotides as taste/flavor contributors.
Sugar-free extract
Wine makers and viticulturalists have recognized a flavor in wine which has come to be known as sugar-free extract. This flavor is associated with a “sweet” taste found in wines devoid of appreciable levels of sugar compounds.
Correlation of umami taste to bitterness suppression
Increased amounts of free amino acids and ribonucleotides in food products have been correlated with reduced bitterness and acidic “bite.” This effect is similar to the flavor enhancement achieved when wine is aged for extended period on the lees deposited during and after fermentation.
Compounds associated with umami taste found in wine grapes and wine
Compund
Description
mg/l in grapes
mg/l in wine
Glutamic Acid
Precursor to glutamates and glutamine.
0-1330
3-86
Glutamate
Salts of glutamic acid: compounds responsible for primary umami taste.
5’-ribonucleotides
Potentiometer for umami taste intensity provided by yeast excretion and autolysis. Ribonucleotides have been shown to magnify umami taste from glutamates nine-fold[3]. “from 0.6-1.4 mg/l fo the nucleotides ADP, AMP, CMP, UDP, UMP and UTP were found…The nucleotides may act as reinforcers of flavors and in flavor formation in sparkling wines[4]
0.6-1.4 mg/l
Glutamine
Produced instead of glutamate in presence of ammonia in grapes (present in grape juice at concentrations of 24-309 mg/l with and average of 123 mg/l, nad in in wints from a few milligrams to about 50 mg/l with and average of about 12 mg/l[5]), depriving wine of umami taste. Studies show warm growing conditions increase levels of ammonia, creating glutamine in lieu of glutamate, requiring higher degree of fruit ripeness to achieve desirable umami taste. This correlation may help explain the phenomenon of how wine grapes in Bordeaux and Germany can achieve physiological maturity at lower sugar levels than the same grape varieties grown under warmer conditions, such as Napa Valley.
Amino acids with sweet taste characteristics found in grapes and wine
“The tastes of amino acids have traditionally been represented by one dominant taste, such as sweet (Ala, Gly, Pro, Ser, etc.)…[6]”
Proline
Proline is usually the highest concentration of amino acid:
· 0-4600 mg/l, 742 mg/l average for 78 determinations in grapes4.
· 30-3558 mg/l, 869 mg/l average for 42 determinations of wine[8].
· Represents as much as 90% of the total nitrogen in Cabernet Sauvignon.
· Proline is partially used during fermentation, restored by yeast autolysis.
Alanine
Pg. 2478, Umami, a fifth basic taste
Glycine
Pg. 248, Umami Taste of Seafoods, Komata
Arginine
· Must – 4-2360 mg/l, wine 0-2311[9]
· “Arganine levels increased approximately 20-fold during the fruit ripening period of several grape cultivar and at maturity arganine contributed the largest fraction (up to 50%) of N to total berry N.” R. Kruegar and W.M. Kliever, Arganine Metabolism, International Symposium on Nitrogen in Grapes and Wine, 1991, pg. 291
Wine descriptors consistent with umami taste descriptors
Sweet, savory, brothy, creamy, mouthfeel, mellow, rich, etc.
Wine flavor descriptors –
Red Wine: body, extract, ripe, beefy, sweet, mushroomy
White Wine: creamy, mellow, sweet, smooth, rich, ripe
Viticultural implications
Amino acid concentration and distribution in relation to:
1. Vine variety and clone.
2. Rootstock selection
3. Vine vigor and vegetative growth, total vine management in relationship to soil and climate.
4. Fertilization “amino acid concentrations in juice were highly correlated to total N” pg. 197, Must and Wine quality, International Symposium on Nitrogen in Grapes and Wine, 1991, S.E. Spade. “wines from non-fertilized vines scored lowers in aroma, intensity, flavor and overall wine quality.”
5. Crop yield
6. Vintage conditions (higher levels in “quality” vintages)
7. Ammonia/glutamine and reduced umami taste potential in relationship to growing conditions:
Bordeaux vs. Napa Valley
Riesling in Germany and development of “protein” taste
Fermentation and umami taste enhancement
1. Yeast contribution
2. Maceration
3. Red wine fermentation is conducted with the inclusion of grape solids. The pumping over or submersion of the cap keeps yeast cells constantly moving during the maceration period. Extended maceration of red wines creates a flavor profile consistent with umami taste characteristics, and may explain the softening and reduced bitterness and astringency of red wines made with extended maceration.
4. White wine fermentation is generally shorter in duration and conducted in the absence of grape solids. The umami flavor enhancement occurs during the aging period of the wine in contact with the lees resulting from fermentation.
5. Malo-lactic fermentation
6. Proteins
Cellar techniques and umami taste enhancement
Lees contact and lees stirring (including extended maceration for red wines):
Many white wines benefit from contact with spent yeast cells during post-fermentation aging. These flavor distinctions are consistent with enhanced umami taste characteristics: reduced impression of bitterness, rich, mellow, creamy, etc. The spent yeast cells would provide a source for 5’-ribonucleotides that would act as the potentiometer to synergize existing glutamates in the wine.
Champagne aging en-tirage
The aging of Champagne and sparkling wines on the lees after secondary bottle fermentation creates flavor distinctions consistent with enhanced umami taste characteristics: reduced impression of bitterness, rich, mellow, creamy, etc. The spent yeast cells would provide a source for 5’-ribonucleotides that would act as the potentiometer to synergize existing glutamates in the wine.
Flor yeast formation and ribonucleotides
Ammonia additions improve quality, page 228, Amerine, Wine Production and Technology in the United States
[1] E. Peynaud, Knowing and Making Wine, 48, (1981) The Taste of Wine
[2] Umami, the Fifth Basic Taste
[3] Helen Conn, “Umami” the Fifth Basic taste, Nutrition and Science, No. 2, pp. 21-23, March/April 1992
[4] M.A Amerine and C.S. Ough, Methods for Analysis of Musts and Wines, pg. 155 (1980)
[5] C.S. Ough, American Journal of Viticulture. 20, 213-220 (1969)
[6] Shinya Fuke and Tetsuji Shimizu, Sensory and preference aspects of umami, Trends in Food Science and Technology:4 (8) 246-251 41 ref. (1969)
[7] C.S. Ough, Vitis, 7, 321-331 (1968)
[8] C.S. Ough, Vitis, 7, 321-331 (1968)
[9] C.S. Ough and O. Bustos, Wines Vines (50)4, 50-58 (1969), C.S. Ough, unpublished data
The long and short of this is the descriptors consistent with lees stirring Chardonnay and other white wines fit descriptors for umami taste; rich, full, creamy, etc. There is a corresponding mouthfeel component and these combine to fit umami taste descriptions to a tee. Extending the maceration of red wines would also be consistent with this hypothesis and additional contact with the yeast during this process may contribute significant levels nucleotides, the umami taste potenitometer, to the equation. And finally ahe primary taste charcteristics assoicated with aging sparkling wine en tireage and the development of rich, almost savory, Sherry flavors from contact with the flor yeast are lumped in here as well. This would account for the 'softening' of bitterness and astringency and increase in richness of flavor that is noted with longer maceration of red wines, etc.
Modern production techniques, ripeness levels, specialized yeast strains and post fermentation handling and treatments can all contibute to the increase in umami taste compounds in wine. I will be posting a video explanation of umami (in the context of truths, myths, half-truths and downright lies) shortly and set up a link for anyone interested.
Taste a plain, uncooked mushroom and then compare to a mushroom you have nuked in the microwave in a plastic baggie for 30 seconds. Apart from the 'mushroomy' aromatics you will experience the genesis of umami taste firsthand.
For anyone interested here is the info!! Tata for now and proceed with caution. Or use this as a sleep aid tonight. I wonder if anyone is working on a technology for bathrooms to replace magazines and newspaper with on demand internet and email access? Crap (figuratively speaking), another project.
Umami taste has gained much attention and formal recognition from the sensory science community as a 5th primary taste category in addition to sweet, sour, bitter and salty. Glutamic acid and 5’–ribonucleotides, which is known to synergize the intensity of umami taste of glutatmate, are found in sufficient concentration levels in wine to play an essential role in forming the taste and flavor profile and intensity of quality wines. The correlation of these compounds to desirable taste and flavor characteristics of wine has been referred to (Peynaud[1]) but never fully analyzed. The umami taste sensation, derived from glutamates and 5’-ribonucleotides, is well documented as an attractive, primary taste component of myriad food products. Additionally there are several amino acids that have been identified that add a sweet taste to foods, notably praline, arganine and alanine that are found in sufficient concentrations to be considered as taste contributors.
A preliminary review of existing studies shows sufficient levels of naturally occurring umami taste substances in both wine grapes and finished wine to warrant further study of this hypothesis. Glutamic acid, a natural compound found in wine grapes and a precursor to glutamate taste substances, and 5’ -ribonucleotides, which are associated with yeast fermentation and the enzymatic decomposition of ribonucleic acid from yeast cells. The contribution of glutamic acid (more correctly glutamate) to the taste of wine is acknowledged by Emile Peynaud in his books Knowing and Making Wine and The Taste of Wine: “Among the amino acids, however, glutamic acid should perhaps be accorded a special mention. Its appetizing flavor is well known, salty, and mellow at once. If some 200 mg/l were present in a wine, its effect on the taste would not be negligible.” Synergized by 5’ –ribonucleotides, lesser amounts of glutamic acid would contribute significantly to the taste and flavor of wine.
Alanine, proline, glycine and arginine have been found to contribute a sweet taste in various foods and are associated with the “sweet” taste of crab and other seafoods (Umami, the Fifth Basic Taste[2]) These amino acids are found in significant levels in wine grapes and wine as well. Understanding the importance of the umami taste in wine, now recognized as the fundamental taste of seafood, tomato, asparagus, mushrooms and cheese, will lead to a better understanding of standard of viticultural and winemaking processes. Implementing practices in the vineyard and winery that create higher concentrations of the appropriate precursors and optimize umami taste intensity in wine can maximize desirable taste characteristics.
Introduction
Recognition of amino acids and ribonucleotides as taste/flavor contributors.
Sugar-free extract
Wine makers and viticulturalists have recognized a flavor in wine which has come to be known as sugar-free extract. This flavor is associated with a “sweet” taste found in wines devoid of appreciable levels of sugar compounds.
Correlation of umami taste to bitterness suppression
Increased amounts of free amino acids and ribonucleotides in food products have been correlated with reduced bitterness and acidic “bite.” This effect is similar to the flavor enhancement achieved when wine is aged for extended period on the lees deposited during and after fermentation.
Compounds associated with umami taste found in wine grapes and wine
Compund
Description
mg/l in grapes
mg/l in wine
Glutamic Acid
Precursor to glutamates and glutamine.
0-1330
3-86
Glutamate
Salts of glutamic acid: compounds responsible for primary umami taste.
5’-ribonucleotides
Potentiometer for umami taste intensity provided by yeast excretion and autolysis. Ribonucleotides have been shown to magnify umami taste from glutamates nine-fold[3]. “from 0.6-1.4 mg/l fo the nucleotides ADP, AMP, CMP, UDP, UMP and UTP were found…The nucleotides may act as reinforcers of flavors and in flavor formation in sparkling wines[4]
0.6-1.4 mg/l
Glutamine
Produced instead of glutamate in presence of ammonia in grapes (present in grape juice at concentrations of 24-309 mg/l with and average of 123 mg/l, nad in in wints from a few milligrams to about 50 mg/l with and average of about 12 mg/l[5]), depriving wine of umami taste. Studies show warm growing conditions increase levels of ammonia, creating glutamine in lieu of glutamate, requiring higher degree of fruit ripeness to achieve desirable umami taste. This correlation may help explain the phenomenon of how wine grapes in Bordeaux and Germany can achieve physiological maturity at lower sugar levels than the same grape varieties grown under warmer conditions, such as Napa Valley.
Amino acids with sweet taste characteristics found in grapes and wine
“The tastes of amino acids have traditionally been represented by one dominant taste, such as sweet (Ala, Gly, Pro, Ser, etc.)…[6]”
Proline
Proline is usually the highest concentration of amino acid:
· 0-4600 mg/l, 742 mg/l average for 78 determinations in grapes4.
· 30-3558 mg/l, 869 mg/l average for 42 determinations of wine[8].
· Represents as much as 90% of the total nitrogen in Cabernet Sauvignon.
· Proline is partially used during fermentation, restored by yeast autolysis.
Alanine
Pg. 2478, Umami, a fifth basic taste
Glycine
Pg. 248, Umami Taste of Seafoods, Komata
Arginine
· Must – 4-2360 mg/l, wine 0-2311[9]
· “Arganine levels increased approximately 20-fold during the fruit ripening period of several grape cultivar and at maturity arganine contributed the largest fraction (up to 50%) of N to total berry N.” R. Kruegar and W.M. Kliever, Arganine Metabolism, International Symposium on Nitrogen in Grapes and Wine, 1991, pg. 291
Wine descriptors consistent with umami taste descriptors
Sweet, savory, brothy, creamy, mouthfeel, mellow, rich, etc.
Wine flavor descriptors –
Red Wine: body, extract, ripe, beefy, sweet, mushroomy
White Wine: creamy, mellow, sweet, smooth, rich, ripe
Viticultural implications
Amino acid concentration and distribution in relation to:
1. Vine variety and clone.
2. Rootstock selection
3. Vine vigor and vegetative growth, total vine management in relationship to soil and climate.
4. Fertilization “amino acid concentrations in juice were highly correlated to total N” pg. 197, Must and Wine quality, International Symposium on Nitrogen in Grapes and Wine, 1991, S.E. Spade. “wines from non-fertilized vines scored lowers in aroma, intensity, flavor and overall wine quality.”
5. Crop yield
6. Vintage conditions (higher levels in “quality” vintages)
7. Ammonia/glutamine and reduced umami taste potential in relationship to growing conditions:
Bordeaux vs. Napa Valley
Riesling in Germany and development of “protein” taste
Fermentation and umami taste enhancement
1. Yeast contribution
2. Maceration
3. Red wine fermentation is conducted with the inclusion of grape solids. The pumping over or submersion of the cap keeps yeast cells constantly moving during the maceration period. Extended maceration of red wines creates a flavor profile consistent with umami taste characteristics, and may explain the softening and reduced bitterness and astringency of red wines made with extended maceration.
4. White wine fermentation is generally shorter in duration and conducted in the absence of grape solids. The umami flavor enhancement occurs during the aging period of the wine in contact with the lees resulting from fermentation.
5. Malo-lactic fermentation
6. Proteins
Cellar techniques and umami taste enhancement
Lees contact and lees stirring (including extended maceration for red wines):
Many white wines benefit from contact with spent yeast cells during post-fermentation aging. These flavor distinctions are consistent with enhanced umami taste characteristics: reduced impression of bitterness, rich, mellow, creamy, etc. The spent yeast cells would provide a source for 5’-ribonucleotides that would act as the potentiometer to synergize existing glutamates in the wine.
Champagne aging en-tirage
The aging of Champagne and sparkling wines on the lees after secondary bottle fermentation creates flavor distinctions consistent with enhanced umami taste characteristics: reduced impression of bitterness, rich, mellow, creamy, etc. The spent yeast cells would provide a source for 5’-ribonucleotides that would act as the potentiometer to synergize existing glutamates in the wine.
Flor yeast formation and ribonucleotides
Ammonia additions improve quality, page 228, Amerine, Wine Production and Technology in the United States
[1] E. Peynaud, Knowing and Making Wine, 48, (1981) The Taste of Wine
[2] Umami, the Fifth Basic Taste
[3] Helen Conn, “Umami” the Fifth Basic taste, Nutrition and Science, No. 2, pp. 21-23, March/April 1992
[4] M.A Amerine and C.S. Ough, Methods for Analysis of Musts and Wines, pg. 155 (1980)
[5] C.S. Ough, American Journal of Viticulture. 20, 213-220 (1969)
[6] Shinya Fuke and Tetsuji Shimizu, Sensory and preference aspects of umami, Trends in Food Science and Technology:4 (8) 246-251 41 ref. (1969)
[7] C.S. Ough, Vitis, 7, 321-331 (1968)
[8] C.S. Ough, Vitis, 7, 321-331 (1968)
[9] C.S. Ough and O. Bustos, Wines Vines (50)4, 50-58 (1969), C.S. Ough, unpublished data
Saturday, November 21, 2009
Points of view, Consumer Wine Awards and other miscellany
Saturday, November 21, 2009 - 6:00 PM
We whould have our formal trade press release and call for submissions for the Consumer Wine Awards at Lodi out by Monday. Really exited about how everything seems to be coming together.
Long day today, starting with a segment on a San Francisco morning show with Henry Tenenbaum, KRON 4 TV. He is a riot and we filmed a piece at the Conservatory of Flowers at Golden Gate Park. Felt like I was back in the jungles of Coconut Grove, Florida with the type of flora surrounding us! Henry is a hoot and LOVES Vignon Seasoning. Did a 'turkey' spot - boneless turkey stuffed and rolled.
Later I met at V Wine Cellars with a group putting together an international wine summit for next April in Yountville. It will be targeted to a high end audience from India and per Rusty Eddy’s comment, “maybe I'll finally come to understand what you've been talking about for so long!”, one of the organizers was looking at me as if I was from Mars while I explained the ‘alternative paradigm’ I introduce in my seminars. I know I come off in a very strange manner to a lot of people. Just ask my wife.
At the end of the meeting everyone was on board and looks like I will be presenting my new, easier to understand, more relevant, inclusive, less off-pissing (like pisses people off less) perspective on how humans create our very individual points of views, preferences and values. I have learned to be much more patient (sometimes) and make sure I get everyone enrolled, although sometimes it just seems I can’t win them all! The group will be about 250 people across a lot of levels of interest and expertise in wine. It also looks like we will be able to conduct a wine tasting/evaluation using our new system creative for the Consumer Wine Awards at Lodi (www.consumerwineawards.com). This will be a very cool project for me, Pooch and Aaron (the Diversity Wine Awards Llc team) if they decide to use us for the tastings. We are hoping to do an increasing number of events around the world using our system.
Off to Silo’s at the Hatt Building in Napa to hear Kellie Fuller (Kellie in the Morning on KVYN here in Napa). Darryl Borges, a good friend and past drummer with our band, is in town. More pertinent things to say tomorrow!
We whould have our formal trade press release and call for submissions for the Consumer Wine Awards at Lodi out by Monday. Really exited about how everything seems to be coming together.
Long day today, starting with a segment on a San Francisco morning show with Henry Tenenbaum, KRON 4 TV. He is a riot and we filmed a piece at the Conservatory of Flowers at Golden Gate Park. Felt like I was back in the jungles of Coconut Grove, Florida with the type of flora surrounding us! Henry is a hoot and LOVES Vignon Seasoning. Did a 'turkey' spot - boneless turkey stuffed and rolled.
Later I met at V Wine Cellars with a group putting together an international wine summit for next April in Yountville. It will be targeted to a high end audience from India and per Rusty Eddy’s comment, “maybe I'll finally come to understand what you've been talking about for so long!”, one of the organizers was looking at me as if I was from Mars while I explained the ‘alternative paradigm’ I introduce in my seminars. I know I come off in a very strange manner to a lot of people. Just ask my wife.
At the end of the meeting everyone was on board and looks like I will be presenting my new, easier to understand, more relevant, inclusive, less off-pissing (like pisses people off less) perspective on how humans create our very individual points of views, preferences and values. I have learned to be much more patient (sometimes) and make sure I get everyone enrolled, although sometimes it just seems I can’t win them all! The group will be about 250 people across a lot of levels of interest and expertise in wine. It also looks like we will be able to conduct a wine tasting/evaluation using our new system creative for the Consumer Wine Awards at Lodi (www.consumerwineawards.com). This will be a very cool project for me, Pooch and Aaron (the Diversity Wine Awards Llc team) if they decide to use us for the tastings. We are hoping to do an increasing number of events around the world using our system.
Off to Silo’s at the Hatt Building in Napa to hear Kellie Fuller (Kellie in the Morning on KVYN here in Napa). Darryl Borges, a good friend and past drummer with our band, is in town. More pertinent things to say tomorrow!
Friday, November 20, 2009
The Emperor's New Clos
I am a crap blogger in all probability and, given the length of this post, you may agree. Or just fall asleep. Next will be my wine interpreation of War and Peace.
Following is a presentation I gave to the Institute of Masters of Wine International Symposium in Perth, Australia, in 1996 with several hundred of the wine glitterati in attendance from all around the world. Before I left Napa I jokingly told my admin assistant I should do the speech dressed in a robe and crown. When I checked into my hotel the robe and crown were in my closet. All I had underneath was a very neutral colored speedo-like bathing suit. You can figure the rest out at the end of this long post! Seems like the Institute has a sense of humor - I still have my initials.
***** There was a great air of anticipation in the Kingdom. The Emperor had finally arranged for a meeting with a very important nobleperson from a powerful neighboring country. The Visiting Dignitary, his wife and his young daughter were due to dine with the Emperor at the Royal Hall at the summer palace later in the month. The Emperor and the Visiting Dignitary would discuss forming an important alliance between their countries.
It was common knowledge that the Visiting Dignitary was due to talk with other countries about this alliance as well. If the allegiance was formed with one of the neighbors it would imperil the very existence of the Emperor’s domain.
The Visiting Dignitary was an important and powerful person. Rumor had it that he was well schooled and brilliant in languages, philosophy, business, history and the sciences. At a meeting with his staff the Emperor stressed the importance to of striking a deal with the Visiting Dignitary to create an important strategic alliance. Everything for the dinner had to be perfect.
The Imperial Wine Advisor was given the charge of selecting the wines for the dinner by the Emperor himself. The Wine Advisor would brief the Emperor on the wine selections with each dish the day before the dinner so that he would appear quite sophisticated and knowledgeable in the oenological arts.
The Wine Advisor met with the chef to discuss the menu, which was composed of all of the great foods of the season: special chevre from the Loire Valley, the finest Belon oysters, fresh salmon from Norway, dry-aged Charolais beef from Burgundy and fine cheeses. No expense would be spared.
The Visiting Dignitary’s taste was well known. He particularly favored the finest vintages from the great Clos of France. The Imperial Wine Advisor then set about the task of finding the wines that would create the perfect harmony with each dish. He was looking for that elusive synergy of flavors and harmonious balance that would demonstrate the highest level of gastronomic savoir faire. Since the Royal Cellar had one of the greatest inventories of the land, each wine would be from the most reputable Clos in the world!
The Imperial Wine Advisor was extremely fluent in wine things. He had started out in life as a Liberal Arts major in college. A job as a waiter helped him to pay his way through school. This gave him an introduction to wine service and the opportunity to taste and learn about wines. His fascination grew to the point that he knew that this should become his vocation. He tasted and studied with a vengeance, absorbing both knowledge and Herculean quantities of wine. Trips to the wine producing region were interspersed with blind tastings and his studies of viticulture and enology. No stone was left unturned.
Soon he commanded attention at dinner parties with his knowledge of malo-lactic fermentation. When he discussed terroir everyone would fall silent, obviously enraptured by his mystic wisdom and insight. Great vintages? He had had them all. Others at the table would be cut to ribbons after boasting about great bottles that they had been privy to tasting. The Imperial Wine Advisor could humble the best of them. “How cute that you tried the 1945 vintage of that wine. I had the opportunity to have that particular bottle with the Count himself. We were able to compare it to the 1928, and the ‘45 paled in comparison. I thought the ‘28 to possibly be the finest nectar that had ever passed my lips until the Count brought up the 1870. Now there is a wine!” he would boast.
Word of the great palate and encyclopedic knowledge that the young man possessed finally led to an interview at the Royal Court. After giving a two-hour discourse on the socio-economic ramifications of brettanomyces and 2-mthoxy 3-isobutal pyrizine he was hired on the spot.
Armed with his innate wine knowledge and intuition for food affinities, he set to the task at hand: creating the perfect marriage of wine and food with wines from the France’s greatest Clos. The Wine Advisor then met with the Emperor to discuss the wine selections he made for each dish.
The meal would begin with exquisite canapés made with the fine chevre found in the eastern Loire. Clos de la Perriere Sancerre would be appropriate. For the oyster course the decision was simple; Chablis Les Clos. And certainly a regal fish like salmon would be perfect with the Beaune Clos des Mouches. The combination of Charolais Beef and Clos de Vougeot, both the pride of Burgundy, was obvious. Clos Fourtet from St. Emilion with the cheese course was a sublime choice. This was so easy! To cap it all off, the meal would end with marvelous single-vineyard Alsatian wine, Clos Ste. Hune. Given his background and passion he quickly passed over the thoughts of including Clos de Val and Clos de Bois. Pretenders at best he thought in his emotionally jaded mind.
The Royal Wine Advisor made plans for the bottles of these great Clos to be brought over from the Royal Cellars. This needed to be done several days in advance as the cellars were located almost a day’s journey away, in the main palace. The dinner was to take place in the summer palace, perched on an impressive crest overlooking the river. The Royal Wine Advisor made sure to order plenty of each of the wines, as once the dinner started it would be impossible to get more during the course of the meal. He would also make arrangements to stay over at the Summer Palace and oversee the proper handling of the wines on their arrival so they could “rest” properly before the dinner.
The wines arrived the evening before the great event. That night at dinner with the staff he assumed an air of great importance and shared all of the details that were involved in the most delicate art of wine and food pairing he was entrusted to create. Occasionally he had to prod one of the other members of the team who fell asleep during his exciting recitation (they were obviously overworked).
A very pretty pastry chef sitting next to the Royal Wine Advisor said it would certainly be thrilling to taste some of these magnificent wines. She remarked that she tended to get very wild and uninhibited when she drank fine wine. The Royal wine advisor, having dedicated his life to wine and never having the time to pursue a relationship, slyly indicated that he alone had the key to the cellar and might take the young lady down to the cellar later to try a few of the great Clos that he had assembled. The young pastry chef blushed and whispered that she would meet him in the cellar at midnight.
At midnight the Royal Wine Advisor tiptoed to the cellar and unlocked the wrought iron gate. He breathed in the rich, heady aromas. The smell always gave him an immense feeling of satisfaction. The young pastry chef showed up for the vinous tryst moments later. She remarked “It really stinks in here, doesn’t it?” Poor, misguided youth, the Royal Wine Advisor thought.
He proceeded to open and pour from the bottles of wine assembled for the dinner. He had made sure to have plenty of the wines available for the dinner, so this did not worry him. The two of them could not drink enough to create a shortage.
He explained each wine lovingly to his pupil. His seemingly enraptured partner in crime implored him to drink more. He was growing a little impatient for her to go very wild and become uninhibited as she had indicated she would at dinner. They had gone through several bottles and she seemed to be completely unaffected.
He decided to speed up the pace, downing one glass of nectar after another. He was expecting her to go wild any moment. He sure hoped so. He was starting to feel a bit queasy, totally unaware that the young pastry chef was pouring her wine into a bucket next to her chair while he was drinking himself to oblivion. The Royal Wine Advisor was soon sound asleep.
The young pastry chef notified the other staff members that the party was now ready to begin. The entire staff came down to the cellar and began to drink the wines, all the while parroting the affectations of the Royal Wine Advisor. They drank until every last drop was gone and a great time was had by all.
The Royal Wine Advisor awoke the next day with a start and a groan. It took him a moment to remember where he was and he had no idea what time it was. Glancing at his watch, his heart sank. It was only one hour until the reception for the dinner!
His heart was racing and his head was pounding. What happened? The cellar was strewn with empty bottles. In fact, there was not a single bottle that had been spared. The Royal Wine Advisor raced upstairs to the kitchen, where the rest of the staff was. He could swear he heard them giggling under their breath.
The Emperor poked his head in the door and gave the Royal Wine Advisor a wink. “Everything set for dinner? I can hardly wait to taste the wines you have selected for the meal.” The Royal Wine Advisor smiled wanly and assured the Emperor that the wines would be sublime indeed.
The Royal Wine Advisor ran back to cellar in a panic. What could he do? There was not a single drop of wine left and it would take days to get replacements.
He devised a plan. He would put the corks back into the empty bottles. He would carry on about his business as if nothing were wrong! Ceremoniously draw the corks from the bottle. Sniff the cork carefully. Pretend to pour a bit in his tastevin. Peer at it intently and take a long, slow sniff. Lift the cup to his mouth, take small drink, suck air and gurgle with authority. Proclaim that this particular bottle is the finest example he had ever had the opportunity to savor - and then proclaim that anyone with a sophisticated palate would surely agree that this was a wine of great breed and distinction.
He would call upon his fluent ability to speak oenobabble about the wines, stressing finesse and delicacy. See how brilliant they were? The Emperor would then speak about the wine and food as they had rehearsed. He was sure that everyone would be appropriately impressed and intimidated. What could they say?
The Royal Wine Advisor re-corked the bottles and straightened himself up as best as he could. He washed his face, combed his hair and took a deep breath. It was show time! He entered the dining room with the Clos de la Perriere. He cupped the bottom of the bottle with his right hand and held the very top with his left, hiding the fact that the capsule had been removed. The Emperor gave the label a perfunctory glance and nodded an affirmation to the Royal Wine Advisor, who turned to the sideboard. Here, hidden by his generous being, he pretended to remove the foil and then removed the cork, which gave way with a satisfying smack. The cork was presented to the host who dutifully gazed at it, looking for he knew not what.
The Royal Wine Advisor poured a little air into the Emperor’s glass. The Emperor lifted the fine crystal. Boy, talk about light wine he thought. I cannot even feel it in the glass, let alone see it! How extraordinary. He lifted the glass to the dazzling light of the crystal chandelier and deftly drew little circles in the air, studying the glass with knit brows. The glass then was lowered to his royal nose, and the Emperor inhaled deeply. Bringing the glass to his lips, he tilted it, pursed his lips, and sucked air with the authority of one tutored in the vinous arts. “Magnificent! Curt, yet not obsequious! You are to be commended in your selection, Royal Wine Advisor. So light and crisp, with a clarity I have never encountered.”
The Royal Wine Advisor proceeded to pour air into the glasses of the rest of the guests with new confidence, except that of the Visiting Dignitary’s daughter, crisply turning the bottle at the end of each imaginary pour, so as not to spill a drop on the fine linen table cloth. The guests each performed the proper rituals of tasting; swirling their glasses, inhaling and sucking. They nodded their heads, bobbing knowingly, in the manner in which the experts in the wine videos did when they heartily approved of a wine. The daughter of the Visiting Dignitary swirled her Coca Cola and holding it to the light, mocking her elders with childish glee.
The wife of the Visiting Dignitary remarked that she never really liked wine, except that dreadful White Zinfandel that she was embarrassed to drink in public. The snooty servers at the local Beef ‘n Burgundy restaurant always rolled their eyes when she ordered a glass of it with the Princess cut filet mignon. She could drink this particular Clos all night! It was so light and delicate.
One of the diners pointed out that it went perfectly with the fine chevre that it was served to accompany. This was a perfect lead-in for the Emperor.
“Well, if you smell the Clos de la Perrier you will find the typical aroma of fresh-cut grass,” he said. The glasses came up and the faces came down simultaneously around the table. The heads all bobbed the video wine nod in agreement. Fresh-cut grass, indeed. Clear as a bell!
“This particular cheese comes from a producer just outside of Sancerre, where the Clos is located that this wine comes from. The goats feed on the local grasses, creating a perfect harmony with the wine, don’t you see? The wine smells like grass and the goat that provides the milk for the cheese feeds on grass. Perfect!” Of course we see, said all of the bobbing heads around the table. It was obvious.
Except for one of the heads. This one head was on a lower plane than all of the rest. It belonged to the nine year old daughter of the visiting dignitary and it wasn’t bobbing. “I don’t get it,” she said. “What does the goat eating grass have to do with a wine that smells like grass?” she asked naively.
The grownups all smiled gently. Ah, youth. So innocent. She did not have the benefit of sophistication to draw upon. All that would change, however. She would become mature, educated and sophisticated in time, just like the rest of them. She would learn to appreciate fine wines and learn the language necessary to speak fluently about them.
Next came the Belon oysters, fine and claire. They glistened under the dazzling light of the chandelier. The Royal Wine Advisor repeated the wine ritual again with empty bottles. And again, everyone oohed and aahed over the fineness of this great Chablis les Clos. What a classic combination, for sure. “Oysters and Chablis are certainly one of the truest, finest matches ever conceived. This is due to the Kimmeridgean limestone formation that all great Chablis have their roots in.” Everyone howled their approval at this great joke - had their roots in, that’s a good one.
The Emperor continued “the soil formation is the result of calcium deposits formed during the cretaceous era, when the Paris Basin covered two-thirds of France. Isn’t it appropriate that the skeletons of brachiopods and ancient forms of lobsters and - this is the kicker - OYSTERS - sediments creating the geology that lends the unique terroir to this wine and creates a gastronomic symbiosis of majestic proportions.” The Emperor beamed. He was cookin’ now. He could see that the Visiting Dignitary was duly impressed.
Everything was going perfectly, with the exception of the little brat that the Visiting Dignitary brought along. As soon as the oysters were served the little tyke exclaimed “Gag me with a spoon,” and opened her mouth wide, pointing her finger between her gaping lips in mock regurgitation. Now the impertinent twit had the gall to ask, “What do a bunch of dead fish have to do with the wine?”
The course that followed was the Norweigian salmon, gently poached and served with wild mushrooms in fresh cream. The Emperor started in immediately. “The Clos des Mouches is a big wine; substantial. It has great prop0rtion and size, particularly in this fine vintage. It cries out for a fish of substantial proportions to stand up to richness of flavor that the wine affords. Salmon, being a large fish, fits the bill.”
“A big fish because it is a big wine? It looks to be the same size as all the rest of the wines,” whined the snot-nosed kid. Good reason to follow the sage advice that children should be seen and not heard, thought the Emperor.
The comment was ignored. The Royal Wine Advisor was on a roll. He served the Clos de Vougeot with a newfound confidence. The Emperor launched into his spiel. The regional association of a great Burgundy wine was the regional choice of true Burgundians to accompany the renowned Charolais beef from the region. Who could argue the logic?
The irritating pre-pubescent pipsqueak sired by the Visiting Dignitary chimed in again. “I was told that the real residents of Burgundy are of very modest means and that the great wines are either exported or served at expensive restaurants to rich foreigners. The true Burgundian people eat chicken and drink simple wines, mostly. They can’t afford wine like this.”
The Emperor was no longer amused. It was time to introduce this child to the rites of adulthood. This had to be done with great diplomacy as he did not wish to endanger his budding relationship with the little weasel’s powerful father.
“Royal Wine Advisor, pour our little friend here a glass of the next wine, the Fourtet, if his parents don’t mind. Perhaps if she were to savor some of the delights afforded by the attainment of adulthood, she could better understand what we are speaking of.” The ulterior motive, of course, was to get the girl enough wine and send her to dreamland.
The Royal Wine Advisor was busy decanting an empty bottle from the famous Clos in St. Emilion into a Waterford decanter. He placed a fine crystal bowl in front of the loud-mouthed kid and poured a healthy serving of air from the empty decanter into the glass. “This will shut her up,” the Emperor thought to himself. All of the guests looked on.
The child picked up the glass and held it to the light. She shook the glass back and forth. She stuck her nose in the glass and sniffed rudely. She lifted the glass to her lips and made slurping sounds. Then, in a final affront to propriety, she turned the glass upside down over his mother’s head. Everyone gasped audibly. Then they stared. Nothing came out! The glass was empty. The girl began to chant, “The Emperor has no Clos, the Emperor has no Clos...” over and over again. The rest of the party was shocked. They picked up their glasses and held them upside down...nothing! All of the descriptions of the wines had been meaningless! All of the ceremony and ritual had been a mockery. What of the wine and food affinities? The explanations sounded so convincing and authentic. It turned out that it was all a scam.
It turned out that, indeed, the Emperor had no Clos.
Following is a presentation I gave to the Institute of Masters of Wine International Symposium in Perth, Australia, in 1996 with several hundred of the wine glitterati in attendance from all around the world. Before I left Napa I jokingly told my admin assistant I should do the speech dressed in a robe and crown. When I checked into my hotel the robe and crown were in my closet. All I had underneath was a very neutral colored speedo-like bathing suit. You can figure the rest out at the end of this long post! Seems like the Institute has a sense of humor - I still have my initials.
***** There was a great air of anticipation in the Kingdom. The Emperor had finally arranged for a meeting with a very important nobleperson from a powerful neighboring country. The Visiting Dignitary, his wife and his young daughter were due to dine with the Emperor at the Royal Hall at the summer palace later in the month. The Emperor and the Visiting Dignitary would discuss forming an important alliance between their countries.
It was common knowledge that the Visiting Dignitary was due to talk with other countries about this alliance as well. If the allegiance was formed with one of the neighbors it would imperil the very existence of the Emperor’s domain.
The Visiting Dignitary was an important and powerful person. Rumor had it that he was well schooled and brilliant in languages, philosophy, business, history and the sciences. At a meeting with his staff the Emperor stressed the importance to of striking a deal with the Visiting Dignitary to create an important strategic alliance. Everything for the dinner had to be perfect.
The Imperial Wine Advisor was given the charge of selecting the wines for the dinner by the Emperor himself. The Wine Advisor would brief the Emperor on the wine selections with each dish the day before the dinner so that he would appear quite sophisticated and knowledgeable in the oenological arts.
The Wine Advisor met with the chef to discuss the menu, which was composed of all of the great foods of the season: special chevre from the Loire Valley, the finest Belon oysters, fresh salmon from Norway, dry-aged Charolais beef from Burgundy and fine cheeses. No expense would be spared.
The Visiting Dignitary’s taste was well known. He particularly favored the finest vintages from the great Clos of France. The Imperial Wine Advisor then set about the task of finding the wines that would create the perfect harmony with each dish. He was looking for that elusive synergy of flavors and harmonious balance that would demonstrate the highest level of gastronomic savoir faire. Since the Royal Cellar had one of the greatest inventories of the land, each wine would be from the most reputable Clos in the world!
The Imperial Wine Advisor was extremely fluent in wine things. He had started out in life as a Liberal Arts major in college. A job as a waiter helped him to pay his way through school. This gave him an introduction to wine service and the opportunity to taste and learn about wines. His fascination grew to the point that he knew that this should become his vocation. He tasted and studied with a vengeance, absorbing both knowledge and Herculean quantities of wine. Trips to the wine producing region were interspersed with blind tastings and his studies of viticulture and enology. No stone was left unturned.
Soon he commanded attention at dinner parties with his knowledge of malo-lactic fermentation. When he discussed terroir everyone would fall silent, obviously enraptured by his mystic wisdom and insight. Great vintages? He had had them all. Others at the table would be cut to ribbons after boasting about great bottles that they had been privy to tasting. The Imperial Wine Advisor could humble the best of them. “How cute that you tried the 1945 vintage of that wine. I had the opportunity to have that particular bottle with the Count himself. We were able to compare it to the 1928, and the ‘45 paled in comparison. I thought the ‘28 to possibly be the finest nectar that had ever passed my lips until the Count brought up the 1870. Now there is a wine!” he would boast.
Word of the great palate and encyclopedic knowledge that the young man possessed finally led to an interview at the Royal Court. After giving a two-hour discourse on the socio-economic ramifications of brettanomyces and 2-mthoxy 3-isobutal pyrizine he was hired on the spot.
Armed with his innate wine knowledge and intuition for food affinities, he set to the task at hand: creating the perfect marriage of wine and food with wines from the France’s greatest Clos. The Wine Advisor then met with the Emperor to discuss the wine selections he made for each dish.
The meal would begin with exquisite canapés made with the fine chevre found in the eastern Loire. Clos de la Perriere Sancerre would be appropriate. For the oyster course the decision was simple; Chablis Les Clos. And certainly a regal fish like salmon would be perfect with the Beaune Clos des Mouches. The combination of Charolais Beef and Clos de Vougeot, both the pride of Burgundy, was obvious. Clos Fourtet from St. Emilion with the cheese course was a sublime choice. This was so easy! To cap it all off, the meal would end with marvelous single-vineyard Alsatian wine, Clos Ste. Hune. Given his background and passion he quickly passed over the thoughts of including Clos de Val and Clos de Bois. Pretenders at best he thought in his emotionally jaded mind.
The Royal Wine Advisor made plans for the bottles of these great Clos to be brought over from the Royal Cellars. This needed to be done several days in advance as the cellars were located almost a day’s journey away, in the main palace. The dinner was to take place in the summer palace, perched on an impressive crest overlooking the river. The Royal Wine Advisor made sure to order plenty of each of the wines, as once the dinner started it would be impossible to get more during the course of the meal. He would also make arrangements to stay over at the Summer Palace and oversee the proper handling of the wines on their arrival so they could “rest” properly before the dinner.
The wines arrived the evening before the great event. That night at dinner with the staff he assumed an air of great importance and shared all of the details that were involved in the most delicate art of wine and food pairing he was entrusted to create. Occasionally he had to prod one of the other members of the team who fell asleep during his exciting recitation (they were obviously overworked).
A very pretty pastry chef sitting next to the Royal Wine Advisor said it would certainly be thrilling to taste some of these magnificent wines. She remarked that she tended to get very wild and uninhibited when she drank fine wine. The Royal wine advisor, having dedicated his life to wine and never having the time to pursue a relationship, slyly indicated that he alone had the key to the cellar and might take the young lady down to the cellar later to try a few of the great Clos that he had assembled. The young pastry chef blushed and whispered that she would meet him in the cellar at midnight.
At midnight the Royal Wine Advisor tiptoed to the cellar and unlocked the wrought iron gate. He breathed in the rich, heady aromas. The smell always gave him an immense feeling of satisfaction. The young pastry chef showed up for the vinous tryst moments later. She remarked “It really stinks in here, doesn’t it?” Poor, misguided youth, the Royal Wine Advisor thought.
He proceeded to open and pour from the bottles of wine assembled for the dinner. He had made sure to have plenty of the wines available for the dinner, so this did not worry him. The two of them could not drink enough to create a shortage.
He explained each wine lovingly to his pupil. His seemingly enraptured partner in crime implored him to drink more. He was growing a little impatient for her to go very wild and become uninhibited as she had indicated she would at dinner. They had gone through several bottles and she seemed to be completely unaffected.
He decided to speed up the pace, downing one glass of nectar after another. He was expecting her to go wild any moment. He sure hoped so. He was starting to feel a bit queasy, totally unaware that the young pastry chef was pouring her wine into a bucket next to her chair while he was drinking himself to oblivion. The Royal Wine Advisor was soon sound asleep.
The young pastry chef notified the other staff members that the party was now ready to begin. The entire staff came down to the cellar and began to drink the wines, all the while parroting the affectations of the Royal Wine Advisor. They drank until every last drop was gone and a great time was had by all.
The Royal Wine Advisor awoke the next day with a start and a groan. It took him a moment to remember where he was and he had no idea what time it was. Glancing at his watch, his heart sank. It was only one hour until the reception for the dinner!
His heart was racing and his head was pounding. What happened? The cellar was strewn with empty bottles. In fact, there was not a single bottle that had been spared. The Royal Wine Advisor raced upstairs to the kitchen, where the rest of the staff was. He could swear he heard them giggling under their breath.
The Emperor poked his head in the door and gave the Royal Wine Advisor a wink. “Everything set for dinner? I can hardly wait to taste the wines you have selected for the meal.” The Royal Wine Advisor smiled wanly and assured the Emperor that the wines would be sublime indeed.
The Royal Wine Advisor ran back to cellar in a panic. What could he do? There was not a single drop of wine left and it would take days to get replacements.
He devised a plan. He would put the corks back into the empty bottles. He would carry on about his business as if nothing were wrong! Ceremoniously draw the corks from the bottle. Sniff the cork carefully. Pretend to pour a bit in his tastevin. Peer at it intently and take a long, slow sniff. Lift the cup to his mouth, take small drink, suck air and gurgle with authority. Proclaim that this particular bottle is the finest example he had ever had the opportunity to savor - and then proclaim that anyone with a sophisticated palate would surely agree that this was a wine of great breed and distinction.
He would call upon his fluent ability to speak oenobabble about the wines, stressing finesse and delicacy. See how brilliant they were? The Emperor would then speak about the wine and food as they had rehearsed. He was sure that everyone would be appropriately impressed and intimidated. What could they say?
The Royal Wine Advisor re-corked the bottles and straightened himself up as best as he could. He washed his face, combed his hair and took a deep breath. It was show time! He entered the dining room with the Clos de la Perriere. He cupped the bottom of the bottle with his right hand and held the very top with his left, hiding the fact that the capsule had been removed. The Emperor gave the label a perfunctory glance and nodded an affirmation to the Royal Wine Advisor, who turned to the sideboard. Here, hidden by his generous being, he pretended to remove the foil and then removed the cork, which gave way with a satisfying smack. The cork was presented to the host who dutifully gazed at it, looking for he knew not what.
The Royal Wine Advisor poured a little air into the Emperor’s glass. The Emperor lifted the fine crystal. Boy, talk about light wine he thought. I cannot even feel it in the glass, let alone see it! How extraordinary. He lifted the glass to the dazzling light of the crystal chandelier and deftly drew little circles in the air, studying the glass with knit brows. The glass then was lowered to his royal nose, and the Emperor inhaled deeply. Bringing the glass to his lips, he tilted it, pursed his lips, and sucked air with the authority of one tutored in the vinous arts. “Magnificent! Curt, yet not obsequious! You are to be commended in your selection, Royal Wine Advisor. So light and crisp, with a clarity I have never encountered.”
The Royal Wine Advisor proceeded to pour air into the glasses of the rest of the guests with new confidence, except that of the Visiting Dignitary’s daughter, crisply turning the bottle at the end of each imaginary pour, so as not to spill a drop on the fine linen table cloth. The guests each performed the proper rituals of tasting; swirling their glasses, inhaling and sucking. They nodded their heads, bobbing knowingly, in the manner in which the experts in the wine videos did when they heartily approved of a wine. The daughter of the Visiting Dignitary swirled her Coca Cola and holding it to the light, mocking her elders with childish glee.
The wife of the Visiting Dignitary remarked that she never really liked wine, except that dreadful White Zinfandel that she was embarrassed to drink in public. The snooty servers at the local Beef ‘n Burgundy restaurant always rolled their eyes when she ordered a glass of it with the Princess cut filet mignon. She could drink this particular Clos all night! It was so light and delicate.
One of the diners pointed out that it went perfectly with the fine chevre that it was served to accompany. This was a perfect lead-in for the Emperor.
“Well, if you smell the Clos de la Perrier you will find the typical aroma of fresh-cut grass,” he said. The glasses came up and the faces came down simultaneously around the table. The heads all bobbed the video wine nod in agreement. Fresh-cut grass, indeed. Clear as a bell!
“This particular cheese comes from a producer just outside of Sancerre, where the Clos is located that this wine comes from. The goats feed on the local grasses, creating a perfect harmony with the wine, don’t you see? The wine smells like grass and the goat that provides the milk for the cheese feeds on grass. Perfect!” Of course we see, said all of the bobbing heads around the table. It was obvious.
Except for one of the heads. This one head was on a lower plane than all of the rest. It belonged to the nine year old daughter of the visiting dignitary and it wasn’t bobbing. “I don’t get it,” she said. “What does the goat eating grass have to do with a wine that smells like grass?” she asked naively.
The grownups all smiled gently. Ah, youth. So innocent. She did not have the benefit of sophistication to draw upon. All that would change, however. She would become mature, educated and sophisticated in time, just like the rest of them. She would learn to appreciate fine wines and learn the language necessary to speak fluently about them.
Next came the Belon oysters, fine and claire. They glistened under the dazzling light of the chandelier. The Royal Wine Advisor repeated the wine ritual again with empty bottles. And again, everyone oohed and aahed over the fineness of this great Chablis les Clos. What a classic combination, for sure. “Oysters and Chablis are certainly one of the truest, finest matches ever conceived. This is due to the Kimmeridgean limestone formation that all great Chablis have their roots in.” Everyone howled their approval at this great joke - had their roots in, that’s a good one.
The Emperor continued “the soil formation is the result of calcium deposits formed during the cretaceous era, when the Paris Basin covered two-thirds of France. Isn’t it appropriate that the skeletons of brachiopods and ancient forms of lobsters and - this is the kicker - OYSTERS - sediments creating the geology that lends the unique terroir to this wine and creates a gastronomic symbiosis of majestic proportions.” The Emperor beamed. He was cookin’ now. He could see that the Visiting Dignitary was duly impressed.
Everything was going perfectly, with the exception of the little brat that the Visiting Dignitary brought along. As soon as the oysters were served the little tyke exclaimed “Gag me with a spoon,” and opened her mouth wide, pointing her finger between her gaping lips in mock regurgitation. Now the impertinent twit had the gall to ask, “What do a bunch of dead fish have to do with the wine?”
The course that followed was the Norweigian salmon, gently poached and served with wild mushrooms in fresh cream. The Emperor started in immediately. “The Clos des Mouches is a big wine; substantial. It has great prop0rtion and size, particularly in this fine vintage. It cries out for a fish of substantial proportions to stand up to richness of flavor that the wine affords. Salmon, being a large fish, fits the bill.”
“A big fish because it is a big wine? It looks to be the same size as all the rest of the wines,” whined the snot-nosed kid. Good reason to follow the sage advice that children should be seen and not heard, thought the Emperor.
The comment was ignored. The Royal Wine Advisor was on a roll. He served the Clos de Vougeot with a newfound confidence. The Emperor launched into his spiel. The regional association of a great Burgundy wine was the regional choice of true Burgundians to accompany the renowned Charolais beef from the region. Who could argue the logic?
The irritating pre-pubescent pipsqueak sired by the Visiting Dignitary chimed in again. “I was told that the real residents of Burgundy are of very modest means and that the great wines are either exported or served at expensive restaurants to rich foreigners. The true Burgundian people eat chicken and drink simple wines, mostly. They can’t afford wine like this.”
The Emperor was no longer amused. It was time to introduce this child to the rites of adulthood. This had to be done with great diplomacy as he did not wish to endanger his budding relationship with the little weasel’s powerful father.
“Royal Wine Advisor, pour our little friend here a glass of the next wine, the Fourtet, if his parents don’t mind. Perhaps if she were to savor some of the delights afforded by the attainment of adulthood, she could better understand what we are speaking of.” The ulterior motive, of course, was to get the girl enough wine and send her to dreamland.
The Royal Wine Advisor was busy decanting an empty bottle from the famous Clos in St. Emilion into a Waterford decanter. He placed a fine crystal bowl in front of the loud-mouthed kid and poured a healthy serving of air from the empty decanter into the glass. “This will shut her up,” the Emperor thought to himself. All of the guests looked on.
The child picked up the glass and held it to the light. She shook the glass back and forth. She stuck her nose in the glass and sniffed rudely. She lifted the glass to her lips and made slurping sounds. Then, in a final affront to propriety, she turned the glass upside down over his mother’s head. Everyone gasped audibly. Then they stared. Nothing came out! The glass was empty. The girl began to chant, “The Emperor has no Clos, the Emperor has no Clos...” over and over again. The rest of the party was shocked. They picked up their glasses and held them upside down...nothing! All of the descriptions of the wines had been meaningless! All of the ceremony and ritual had been a mockery. What of the wine and food affinities? The explanations sounded so convincing and authentic. It turned out that it was all a scam.
It turned out that, indeed, the Emperor had no Clos.
Thursday, November 19, 2009
The wine and turkey conundrum
Here we are once again facing the Annual Thanksgiving Wine Question. Takes me back to when I was the wine manager at Happy Herman's in Atlanta in the early '80s.
"Can you help me? I am having turkey. What wine should I serve?" Oh jeez, yer the first to ask that!
At the store we stocked anything from Boone's Farm and Spanada to 1945 Mouton Rothschild and in between. As we were one of the only stores open on Thanksgiving we also had a lot of pissed off customers who demanded to know why we did not carry Tampons and oil for their car at a tiny gourmet gocery store. But we had lots of wine! And lots of customers with different needs and views on what 'good wine' meant to them.
Even then I realized how ridiculous it was to 'match' the wine and food. People wanted something that appealed to their own sense of aesthetics, tasted good on their terms, matched their ideas of value for the money and would hopefully draw the admiration of people at the table who knew about such things. NOT a wine and food match, unless THAT was their sense of aesthetics. I guess then that this first piece will be about aesthtics vs. experience and how we all have our presonal views on the world. 'In the eye of the beholder' and all that.
I just had the honor of speaking at the WineFuture 2009 conference in Logrono, Spain, last week. Steven Spurrier, who organized the 'Judgement of Paris' in 1976 and was portryed in the movie Bottle Shock, was on our plane from Charles de Gaulle to Bilbao, Spain. He is an old friend that I have known for maybe 25 years. We rode to the hotel together with Kate, my wife, who spent the ride talking to the driver about her crusade to establish airline regulations so passengers are not stranded on the tarmac for long periods without food, water, toilets and fresh air. Steven and I were catching up - hadn't seen each other for more than 10 years. We pulled up to the Marques de Riscal Hotel in Elciego. http://www.starwoodhotels.com/luxury/property/overview/index.html?propertyID=1539
"Oh, my god!", said Kate.
"Oh, my god!" said Steven.
They were different "oh my gods." Kate's OMG was filled with awe. Steven's OMG verged on contempt. Both were right in their PERSONAL assessment of the architecture. Kate loves color and off-the-wall, daring design. Steven was appalled that the huge, sweeping sheets of multi-colored titanium spilling and weaving about had no function, was nothing but pointless, gaudy fluffery. Each reacted to their sense of how the world SHOULD be. It is certain that everyone will have an opionion on this building's facade!
A couple of nights later we were seated together for dinner. Huge hall - the giants of the wine industry were all there; Bob Parker, Jancis Robinson, Gary Vaynerchuk. Steven asked to describe a bit more of the work I do around sensations and how our brain processes and interprets sensory input. I babbled some more. Steven looked more confused.
I explained that wine and food matching is metaphorical and that the way a wine person's brain is wired we see lamb in a rich, dark sauce, our brain goes through its' neurological catalogue, finds an imaginary 'match' and then signals 'good'. When we try the match we are no longer actually experiencing the combination, we are just following the 'frame' our brain told us exists. He said, "dear god...", glazed over even further and started looking for another table to join.
"OK," I said, "why does this dish go with the intense red wine we are having?" His answer predictably incorporated words like heavy, protein, tannin, fat, etc. I asked him to take a bite of the lamb, clear his mind and try the wine and really pay attention. He did. His eyes literally opened wide as saucers (well, maybe those tiny little espresso saucers).
"Shit - that is horrible," he said. I fished a piece of lemon out of my sparkling water glass, squeezed a bit on his lamb, added a tich of salt and said "try it again." He did. Even more incredulous now. "Dear god, that's amazing. It's back to normal again."
What to serve with your turkey
A wine YOU love. Having guests that like something you don't? Ask them to bring something THEY love. Don't be shy - almost every guest is wondering what to bring as a gift. Lot's of people? LOTS of wine, and of different types. BIG red wine, SWEET white wine. Pink wine. Sparkling wine. Love to 'match' wine and food and have an aesthetic prinicple that is sacred? THAT wine.
Just make sure to put some lime juice in your yams or sweet potatoes. A touch of Balsamic in your gravy. Lots of citrus and a touch of salt in your cranberry concoctions only be aware it could STILL drive your wine haywire.
What eveyone should have at their Thanksgiving table? LOVE, COMMUNITY, RESPECT FOR EVERYONE ELSE'S OPINIONS WITHOUT THE COMPELLING NEED TO IMPOSE OUR OWN. AND THANKS - LOTS OF THANKS. NOT ONLY TO HAVE, BUT TO GIVE.
"Can you help me? I am having turkey. What wine should I serve?" Oh jeez, yer the first to ask that!
At the store we stocked anything from Boone's Farm and Spanada to 1945 Mouton Rothschild and in between. As we were one of the only stores open on Thanksgiving we also had a lot of pissed off customers who demanded to know why we did not carry Tampons and oil for their car at a tiny gourmet gocery store. But we had lots of wine! And lots of customers with different needs and views on what 'good wine' meant to them.
Even then I realized how ridiculous it was to 'match' the wine and food. People wanted something that appealed to their own sense of aesthetics, tasted good on their terms, matched their ideas of value for the money and would hopefully draw the admiration of people at the table who knew about such things. NOT a wine and food match, unless THAT was their sense of aesthetics. I guess then that this first piece will be about aesthtics vs. experience and how we all have our presonal views on the world. 'In the eye of the beholder' and all that.
I just had the honor of speaking at the WineFuture 2009 conference in Logrono, Spain, last week. Steven Spurrier, who organized the 'Judgement of Paris' in 1976 and was portryed in the movie Bottle Shock, was on our plane from Charles de Gaulle to Bilbao, Spain. He is an old friend that I have known for maybe 25 years. We rode to the hotel together with Kate, my wife, who spent the ride talking to the driver about her crusade to establish airline regulations so passengers are not stranded on the tarmac for long periods without food, water, toilets and fresh air. Steven and I were catching up - hadn't seen each other for more than 10 years. We pulled up to the Marques de Riscal Hotel in Elciego. http://www.starwoodhotels.com/luxury/property/overview/index.html?propertyID=1539
"Oh, my god!", said Kate.
"Oh, my god!" said Steven.
They were different "oh my gods." Kate's OMG was filled with awe. Steven's OMG verged on contempt. Both were right in their PERSONAL assessment of the architecture. Kate loves color and off-the-wall, daring design. Steven was appalled that the huge, sweeping sheets of multi-colored titanium spilling and weaving about had no function, was nothing but pointless, gaudy fluffery. Each reacted to their sense of how the world SHOULD be. It is certain that everyone will have an opionion on this building's facade!
A couple of nights later we were seated together for dinner. Huge hall - the giants of the wine industry were all there; Bob Parker, Jancis Robinson, Gary Vaynerchuk. Steven asked to describe a bit more of the work I do around sensations and how our brain processes and interprets sensory input. I babbled some more. Steven looked more confused.
I explained that wine and food matching is metaphorical and that the way a wine person's brain is wired we see lamb in a rich, dark sauce, our brain goes through its' neurological catalogue, finds an imaginary 'match' and then signals 'good'. When we try the match we are no longer actually experiencing the combination, we are just following the 'frame' our brain told us exists. He said, "dear god...", glazed over even further and started looking for another table to join.
"OK," I said, "why does this dish go with the intense red wine we are having?" His answer predictably incorporated words like heavy, protein, tannin, fat, etc. I asked him to take a bite of the lamb, clear his mind and try the wine and really pay attention. He did. His eyes literally opened wide as saucers (well, maybe those tiny little espresso saucers).
"Shit - that is horrible," he said. I fished a piece of lemon out of my sparkling water glass, squeezed a bit on his lamb, added a tich of salt and said "try it again." He did. Even more incredulous now. "Dear god, that's amazing. It's back to normal again."
What to serve with your turkey
A wine YOU love. Having guests that like something you don't? Ask them to bring something THEY love. Don't be shy - almost every guest is wondering what to bring as a gift. Lot's of people? LOTS of wine, and of different types. BIG red wine, SWEET white wine. Pink wine. Sparkling wine. Love to 'match' wine and food and have an aesthetic prinicple that is sacred? THAT wine.
Just make sure to put some lime juice in your yams or sweet potatoes. A touch of Balsamic in your gravy. Lots of citrus and a touch of salt in your cranberry concoctions only be aware it could STILL drive your wine haywire.
What eveyone should have at their Thanksgiving table? LOVE, COMMUNITY, RESPECT FOR EVERYONE ELSE'S OPINIONS WITHOUT THE COMPELLING NEED TO IMPOSE OUR OWN. AND THANKS - LOTS OF THANKS. NOT ONLY TO HAVE, BUT TO GIVE.
Wednesday, November 18, 2009
Our very first post
Welcome to our new site celebrating balance and harmony . . .
- in food and wine
- in families and communities
- and, most of all, a discovery of your personal connectedness to the Universe
Please explore the Napa Seasoning website for more information.
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